If you are having issues with your EFI.
1. Be sure you have a strong ground from the EFI system. This is mega important. For instance, with our wiring harness we run an 8 gauge ground wire that goes directly from the negative of the battery to the starter mounting bolt. We then attach the EFI ground wire along with the 8 gauge ground wire to the same starter mounting bolt.
2. Verify 100% that you don’t have your inlet fuel lines going anywhere above the bottom of the gas tank. This will cause an air bubble. The fuel pump won’t suck fuel. It needs to be gravity fed. So be sure there is no air bubble by removing the inlet line and letting fuel run onto a rag as you plug it back in.
3. Be sure the fuel is above 1/4 tank.
4. Remove the fuel line from the injector and let it spray into a rag. It should be 42PSI.
5. Check for air leaks. But first, Be 100% sure the plastic intake manifold spacer is removed. We don’t use this because it alters the I take size and can affect the tuning. Let the bike idle, spray carburetor cleaner around the intake and clocking flange. If the bike dies when spraying it’s sucking air and will need to be sealed up.
6. Be sure there is no blinking lights on the ecu as it’s running. If so hook it up to a OBD2. You can rent these from any auto part store.
7. Do a TPS reset
8. Do the self learn process. DO NOT DO THIS UNLESS ITS THE HE LAST RESORT:
9. Adjust the finger screw on the top of the throttle body. Find the highest idle point. Move the screw in or out to find this. Keep in mind this isn't an idle screw, but rather an air/fuel screw. There isn't a certain setting. The main point is to find the highest idle point. Although the system is auto tune. It is not at an idle 1000rpm -2800rpm. Keep this in mind. It’s manual tune in these RPMs. If the bike does coming to a stop, this is the adjustment.
10. If you are still having issues you may need to send the ECU back to us for a re-flash. It’s time to speak one on one. Email us a rollingwrenchparts@gmail.com